Kutch Ajrakh

03.05.2024

Kutch Ajrakh

Why in the news?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

            Recently, the Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks (CGPDTM) has bestowed the Geographical Indication (GI) certificate upon the traditional artisans of 'Kutch Ajrakh,' hailing from the vibrant region of Kutch in Gujarat.

About Kutch Ajrakh:

• It is a textile craft, and holds deep roots in the cultural tapestry of Gujarat, particularly in the regions of Sindh, Barmer, and Kutch, where its legacy spans millennia.
• The art of Ajrakh entails a meticulous process of hand-block printing on treated cotton cloth, culminating in intricate designs infused with rich symbolism and history.

○Its nomenclature originates from ‘Azrak’, meaning indigo, a well-known substance most often employed as a powerful dye to achieve a bluish effect.

○Its prints have traditionally consisted of three colors: blue which signifies the sky, red which signifies the land and the fire, and white which signifies the stars.

• Textiles are treated with vegetable and mineral colours and the fabric goes through a washing cycle about eight times.
• It is characterized by its unique dyeing technique called resist printing. It takes skill and dedication to create a beautiful print with complex geometric and floral patterns
• This craft was introduced to this region over 400 years back by the Sind Muslims.
• Nomadic pastoralist and agricultural communities like the Rabaris, Maldharis, and Ahirs wear Ajrakh printed cloth as turbans, lungis, or stoles.

Other Indian textiles that have received similar recognition.

• Banarasi Silk: The luxurious Banarasi silk sarees from Varanasi have been coveted by women all over the world for their exquisite designs and fine quality. This fabric has been granted a GI tag for its uniqueness in design, weaving technique, and use of pure silk and zari. The intricate designs of Banarasi silk sarees, inspired by Mughal and Persian art, make them stand out in the sea of Indian textiles.
• Chanderi Fabric: Chanderi, a small town in Madhya Pradesh, is known for its delicate and lightweight fabric. Chanderi sarees and suits are made from a combination of cotton and silk, giving them a sheer and lustrous appearance. This fabric has been granted a GI tag for its traditional handloom weaving technique, which dates back to the 13th century. The motifs used in Chanderi fabrics are inspired by nature and are intricately woven using golden zari.
• Kanjeevaram Silk: The Kanjeevaram sarees from Tamil Nadu are famous for their vibrant colours, fine silk, and intricate zari work. This fabric has been granted a GI tag for its traditional weaving technique that uses three shuttles to weave the body, border, and pallu of the saree separately and then join them together. The rich gold zari work on Kanjeevaram sarees makes them a must-have in every Indian woman's wardrobe.
• Kota Doria: One of the many varieties of sari clothing produced in Muhammadabad Gohna, Mau in Uttar Pradesh and the surrounding area, as well as in Kota, Rajasthan, is kota doria. Pure cotton and silk are used to make sarees, which are adorned with square-like designs called khats. Since these sarees were woven in Mysore, they were originally known as Masuria. The GI tag was given to Kota Doria in July 2005. Kota Doria cotton sarees are regarded as the lightest in India because of their transparency and low weight.
• Odisha Ikat: One type of ikat, which is a resist dyeing method, comes from Odisha and is called Orissa Ikat. It is sometimes referred to as "Bandha of Orissa" and has been an Orissan product since 2007. To produce the design on the loom before weaving, the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed.

Key facts about the The GI tag

• It is a certification that identifies a product as originating from a specific geographical location and possessing unique qualities due to that region's traditional knowledge and expertise.
• It not only adds value to the product but also protects it from imitation or misuse.
• In India, GI tag is regulated by the Registration and Protection Act, 1999.
• It is granted for 10 years at a time.
• After this it can be renewed again.

                                                            Source: The Times of India